Some Guilty Pleasures captured by Wendelien Daan

"The woman depicted has it made, but is drawing in luxury and boredom. She surrenders to guilty pleasures. Instead of organic rye she eats industrial white bread and falls asleep on the couch. It's our statement about the fakeness in fashion. Things can be down to earth and still qualify as luxury. So we had Soekie photographed in the garden wearing Dior jewellery, but with dirt under her French manicure. We made her pose with a milk moustache and hide under a paper handkerchief - the exasperated woman hiding from the world"  - Phillip Schueller and Rens de Waal

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Photography
Wendelien Daan @Eric Hennebert

Styling
Mary- Lou Berkulin

Makeup
Kathinka Gernant @UNSPOKEN for Chanel

Hair
Hester Wernert- Rijn @UNSPOKEN
Ambassador Wella & endorser Bailmain Hair Couture

Model
Soekie @Paparazzi Model Management

Ass. Photography
Ramazan Barlas

Nail art
Fréderique Olthuis @House of Orange

All looks by Schueller de Waal

New Collection shoot by MaryMe- JimmyPaul: Gobelin 2.0

 New Collection by MaryMe-JimmyPaul

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Photographer: Derrick Bracks @eyenavigate

Make-up: Natalie Jean @nataliejeanmua
with Chic Studios @chicstudios

Hair: Melody Russ @itsamelmark
with Luxelab Salon @luxelab

Retoucher: Elena Bracks @elenakhlo

Stylist: Kim Krempien @kimkrem

Models: Haniyyah Tahirah @niatm, Ryanne @ryewhitebread,
Lauren Noelle @laurenlonglegs

LINERS: RIMMEL LONDON, MAC, SHISEIDO

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As we arrive into fall floating eyeliner has made its way into the hottest trends. The good old graphic liner is left behind for its more fun sibling, playing with all colors and shapes one can imagine. Written by Maria Colina Saab.

WHERE? Staying true to their edgy nature, Brits experimented with this eyeliner trend during the past LFW, spreading their coolness for all the world to see.

WHY? From being a punk statement to show a focus on clean lines and structure. Adding some floating eyeliner, is a catchy approach to get a memorable beauty in a slightly rebellious way. Making any look stylishly messy.

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WHERE TO BUY? Rimmel London Ambassador Rita Ora Black Wonder Wing Liner. €8. Shiseido Inkstroke Eyeliner Brush €28. Rollerwheel Liquid Eyeline by MAC Cosmetics €20.

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INSPIRATION? Catwalk inspiration for Spring Summer 2018 Eudon Choi and Ashley Williams. For Fall Winter 2017/2018: Kenzo campaign.

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Dior Make-Up Spring-Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear

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For the Spring-Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection, Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Make-up, created a natural make-up look focussing on the eyes.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection pays tribute to Niki de Saint-Phalle, who had close ties to the House of Dior in the 1960s-70s. The radiant beauty of this great artist inspired a fresh and modern make-up look. I wanted, in particular, to accentuate the eyes, in a very spontaneous way, giving the impression of a young girls who had applied her own make-up.

Eyes: The eyes are very expressive here,» states Peter Philips. «I wanted to give them a slight sixties feel without going for a completely retro effect. I chose to really load the eyelashes while leaving them at a natural length. First I applied a coat of Diorshow Maximizer 3D followed by 5 or 6 generous coats of black Diorshow Pump’n’Volume. These very thick lashes, top and bottom, are ultra made-up, but they’re not aiming for a perfect result. Some of them are clumped together, like when a young girls puts her make-up on a bit too quickly.»

He adds: «To emphasize the youthful aspect, I also drew a line of Diorshow Khôl Black Khôl 099 on the waterline of the lower eyelid and slightly accentuated eyebrows with Diorshow Bold Brow and Diorshow Brow Styler.

Complexion: Peter Philips explains: «The complexion looks even and fresh, and is neither too shiny nor too powdered. I obtained this balance by starting with Diorskin Forever & ever wear primer. Next I applied the new Dior Forever Undercover foundation which provides adjustable cover while looking very natural. Its new water-based texture means I can adjust the make-up to each skin type. I continued with a few corrective touches of Diorskin Undercover concealer, and lastly I matified everything with a very light veil of Diorskin Forever & ever Control loose powder.

Lips:Lips got a natural look, prepared with Lips Sugar Scrub then barely heightened with one of the 4 Dior Lip glow shades that best matched the model’s skin tone.

Nails: Nails were natural.

Hair: Styled by Guido Palau, hair was given a sixties twist. Sections were drawn back from the forehead and held in place at the back of the head with two hair slides. The hair was then left loose and wavy.

 Spring-Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear Dior Show Backstage

Dior Make-up created and styled by par Peter Philips

Photography: Vincent Lappartient for Christian Dior Parfums

BEAUTY EDITORIAL: Now U See Mee by William Ferchichi

Skin: Becca cosmetics - Shimmering skin perfector moonstone. MAC Cosmetics: Studio Fix. Cream colour Blush Vintage Rose. Eyes: Mac cosmetics - Satin Eyeshadow range Sushi Flower. Veluxe Pearl Eyeshadow Range Freshwater, Yellow Moderns Range Goldmine. Mascara: NARS. Kyrolan - Aqua Color palette. Brows: Bobbi Brown Brow Kit. Lips: Mac cosmetics - Ruby Woo lip Liner, Ruby Woo Lip stick. Hair: Moroccanoil. Shirt: Ground Zero.

Skin: Becca cosmetics - Shimmering skin perfector moonstone. MAC Cosmetics - Studio Fix, Cream colour Blush Vintage Rose, Soft and Gentle Highlight. Eyes: Mac Cosmetics - Veluxe Pearl Eyeshadow Range Freshwater, Yellow Moderns Range Goldmine. Nars- Mascara, Kyrolan - Aqua Color palette. Brows: Bobbi Brown Brow kit. Lips: Mac cosmetics - Ruby Woo lip Liner, Ruby Woo Lip stick, Glamour Pigment Eyeshadow, Nars - Lip Gloss.Hair: Moroccanoil.

Skin: Becca cosmetics - Shimmering skin perfector moonstone, MAC Cosmetics - Studio Fix, Cream colour Blush Posey. Eyes: MAC cosmetics - Satin Eyeshadow Range Sushi Flower, NARS Mascara Kyrolan - Aqua Color palette, Zoeva Comestics - Female Attraction Eyeliner. Brows: Bobbi Brown Brow kit. Lips: Mac cosmetics – Fruit Cocktail Lip Liner, Morange Lipstick. Hair: Moroccanoil. Top: Cauliflower Issey Miyake.

Skin: Becca cosmetics - Shimmering skin perfector moonstone, Mac Cosmetics - Studio Fix, Cream colour Blush Posey/ Improper Copper, Soft and Gentle Highlight. Eyes: Mac cosmetics - Yellow Moderns Range Goldmine, Nars- Mascara, Kyrolan - Aqua Color palette, Zoeva Comestics - Female Attraction Eyeliner, Magic Moment Cream Eye. Brows: Bobbi Brown Brow kit. Lips: Mac cosmetics - Retro Matte All Fired Up, NARS Lip Pencil. Nails: Sinful – Voodoo.Hair: Moroccanoil.Top: Mugler Paris

Skin:Becca cosmetics - Shimmering skin perfector moonstone, MAC Cosmetics - Studio Fix, Cream colour Blush Posey / Vintage Rose, Soft and Gentle Highlight. Eyes: MAC cosmetics - Satin Eyeshadow Range Sushi Flower, Veluxe Pearl Eyeshadow Range Freshwater, Yellow Moderns Range Goldmine. NARS –Mascara, Kyrolan - Aqua Color palette Zoeva Comestics - Female Attraction Eyeliner. Brows: Bobbi Brown Brow kit. Lips : Mac cosmetics - Ruby Woo lip Liner, Ruby Woo / Cockney Lip stick. Hair: Moroccanoil.

Skin: Becca cosmetics - Shimmering skin perfector moonstone, MAC Cosmetics - Studio Fix, Cream colour Blush Posey/ Improper Copper.Eyes: Mac cosmetics - Yellow Moderns Range Goldmine. NARS – mascara, Kyrolan - Aqua Color palette. Zoeva Comestics - Female Attraction Eyeliner. Brows: Bobbi Brown Brow kit. Lips: MAC cosmetics – Burgundy Lip Pencil, Old Gold Eye Shadow Pigment, NARS – Lip Gloss. Hair: Moroccanoil. Jacket: Issey Miyake Pleats Please.

NAILBERRY: innovatieve nagelverzorging

Nailberry is een Brits nagellakmerk dat vijf jaar geleden is opgezet door Sonia Hully. De missie van de Britse is zo ‘clean’ mogelijk lakken, dat wil zeggen lakken zonder chemicals. In 2015 lanceerde Sonia de L’Oxygène nagellak collectie.

Nagellak zonder chemicaliën komen sterk op, voorlopers zijn merken alsSpaRitual, Kure Bazaar, LVX, Lily Lolo en Nailberry. Ze maken hun lak volgens de eight-free of five-free formula dat wil zeggen een lak zonder een bepaald aantal mogelijk schadelijke ingrediënten als kamfer, tolueen en formaldehyde, dat laatste goedje is overigens zowieso al verboden.

De Nailberry lakken zijn dus zo non-toxic mogelijk, en de kunst is dat de lak ook zonder chemicals zolang mogelijk op de nagels blijft zitten. Dat is zeker het geval bij de lakjes van Nailberry dat onlangs een vierdelige nailcare-lijn lanceerde. Slim, want dat nagels snel beschadigen weten we allemaal.

De Nailberry Nailcare, geparfumeerd met roos, is een welkome aanvulling op de al gigantische Nailberry collectie met elke denkbare kleur (baby blauw!) die vaak tot stand komen in samenwerking met modeontwerpers zoals Camilla Wickstead.

Twee nieuwe nagelverzorgingsproducten zijn de Acai Nail Elixer, en 5 in 1 verzorging die nagels versterkt, de groei stimuleert en hydrateert. De Cure Nailhardener is een verharder met plantenextracten en verrijkt met vitamine A en E.

 

Nailberry Lak €20, Nailcare €23. In Nederland bij Retreat, Van Oldebarneveltstraat 123, Rotterdam.

PHILOSOPHY: The Microdelivery Exfoliating Facial Wash

“Progress is baby steps, small victories and a little bit of momentum…” Written by Rachel Douglass.

It is fascinating to follow a brand that started a hype of philosophical thinking in beauty products, with words of encouragement displayed on their minimalistic packaging. Philosophy is the brand that got our hearts racing with the infamous product, Hope in a Jar, offering renewed skin throughout the day, soon becoming everyone’s usual carry-round purse product. It seems they have done it again, this time mixing up the night time routine with a daily exfoliator providing a 30 second mini peel to rejuvenate tired looking skin. 

With just a small amount needed, I applied the product straight onto damp skin, in circular motions to build up a sweet smelling soapy formula. The micro-exfoliating beads are subtle enough to not feel uncomfortable, yet I could still already feel the difference they were making. Over time I noticed a real change in my skin, with a brighter complexion and the products ability to stop break outs in their track. The daily use even managed to buff away scarring and, as my skin took it in overnight, I could see the change in quality of my face. There are times where I skip a day as I feel my skin is too sensitive to handle an every-night scrubbing, however by using a good moisturiser afterwards you can avoid any dry patches that you fear.

The Microdelivery Exfoliating Facial Wash €26 iciparisxl.nl or £23.00 philosophyskincare.co.uk

For Men Only SA.AL&Co: Apothecary Frenzy

SA.AL&Co is the newly introduced organic and sustainable skincare for men who have been around the world and know what good skincare entails. Written by Wes Viana Ferreiro

According to founder Istvan Laszloffy the main idea behind SA.AL&Co is to marry the idea of premium natural skincare and a masculine design to create a line of essential products for men. Laszloffy from Hungarian-Armenian descent, formerly an investment banker, decided to focus his creative energy into creating a new skincare brand that is sustainable, has clear purpose and fulfils his aesthetic beliefs. Coming from a family of artisan shoe- and glove makers Laszloffy left the financial sector to create a product from a scratch - just like his ancestors did.

The collection includes a hair & body wash, shaving creme, light moisturiser & after shave, intense moisturiser and deodorant. The products have a fresh, subtle fragrance that reminisces of old-fashioned apothecaries created by ingredients such as macadamia oil, shea butter, green tea extract and herbs that can be found in the Alps. The collection is made in small batches to guarantee span-new formulas of the best quality.

 011 Hair and Body Wash €22, 021 Shaving Creme €24, 031 Light Moisturiser and Shave Balm €32, 041 Intense Moisturiser €32, 051 Deodorant €22.  SA.AL&Co is available in Skins stores and on skins.nl

TOPSHOP UNIQUE: AW 2017 Beauty

“The AW17 TOPSHOP look takes inspiration from nineties grunge and race scenes. Pared back skin is the right side of radiant whilst clumpy lashes and a blurred, stained lip recall party anti-perfection,” says Lynsey Alexander, using TOPSHOP Beauty.

THE LIPS:
“Stained terracotta lips are ‘just-bitten’ and worn, painted onto lips with Lip Paint in Crazy Beautiful and topped with Mattifier for a muted, mate finish.Colour is accentuated and solid at the centre whilst edges are blurred with a cotton bud for a feathered, imperfect pout.”

TOPSHOP beauty, Lip Kit in Crazy Beautiful (available from 16th March)

TOPSHOP beauty, Lip Kit in Crazy Beautiful (available from 16th March)

Landt Schiaparelli op mars?

Zou het lukken? Landt Schiaparelli vandaag op Mars, waar het rond deze tijd van het jaar nog al eens flink schijnt te stofstormen. De lancering afgelopen maart ging goed, maar in ruimtevaart is het altijd maar afwachten.

Als mega-Schiaparelli fan zat ik aan de radio gekluisterd. ’s Morgens had ik al contact met de Schiaparelli burelen aan het Parijse Place Vendôme. Ook daar vinden ze deze missie vreselijk fascinerend. Grappig: nieuwslezers die de hele dag de naam Schiaparelli uitspreken zonder een idee te hebben over het bestaande modehuis Schiaparelli.

De Schiaparelli robot is vernoemd naar Giovanni Schiaparelli. De beroemde astronoom was de oom van modeontwerper Elsa Schiaparelli die zelf ook in de ban was van ruimtevaart. In 1939 showde ze haar inmiddels legendarische Zodiac collectie. Over Elsa’s ruimtevaart-inspiratie: oom Giovanni had haar verteld dat de schoonheidsvlekjes op haar gezicht de vorm hadden van de Grote Beer.

Of Schiaparelli inmiddels – het is nu 18.22 – is geland blijft vooralsnog een mysterie.

Hello yellow!

Yellow as a trend color? It continues. Every season we will see more yellow. According to the authoritative trendforecaster Li Edelkoort yellow is the new pink.

Fashion has tackled yellow head on with the most vibrant shades seen in Delpozo’s latest collection by Josep Font. Versace impressed with prints in all shades of yellow while Dior spiced up their winter collection with yellow stilettos and bags.

When it comes to color makeup most of us are still on safe ground. For winter 2017 Fendi and Proenza Schouler convinced us that a yellow lip and eye can indeed be the new pink. Say yes to yellowness!

Yellow makeup by MAC Cosmetics:  Chrome Yellow Eye shadow €18, Rock-It Yellow pigments €22, Chromagraphic pencil € 16. Makeup: Sandra Govers. Photo: Nicky Onderwater.

Crystal Magic

“We wanted to create beautiful kaleidoscopic branches of crystals,” says Peter Pilotto about the Atelier Swarovski by Peter Pilotto Collection.

According the founder of the eponymous label, launched in 2007 with Christopher de Vos, the duo were inspired by the architecture of nature. - from tiny molecules to floral patterns - and the mechanical structures within modern art to push the boundaries of the creative potential of crystal in a collection of sculptural yet wearable jewels.

Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos both graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. “In the beginning we often said that it was Christopher who looked after the silhouettes and I was focused more on the graphics, but now we have both become much more involved in all the different aspects of designing.” In 2009 the duo received a pleasant shock when discovering via twitter that US First Lady, Michelle Obama, had worn one of their designs.

Sold worldwide in over two hundred outlets, the clothing collection captures the imagination through the use of colorful digital prints, based on science and nature, that are alien and enigmatic. The stand out style no doubt was the driving force behind Swarovski’s appraoch tot the label to design a jewellery range.  

So what came first? The Peter Pilotto collection or the jewelry? ”It was an organic dialogue. Our intention was to bring the vibrancy and dynamic elements of our collections to the design process and translate that into the jewellery collection. They reflect and compliment each other.”

 November 20th, Peter Pilotto present highlights from the label’s collections during Fashion in Motion organized by Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

Necklace The Atelier Swarovski by Peter Pilotto Collection € 599. Earrings The Atelier Swarovski by Peter Pilotto Collection € 299.

Sparkling in Abush

Seattle-bred graphic designer Yoon and Tokyo-honed producer, DJ and rapper Verbal met, fell in love, and somewhere along the way launched the world’s coolest jewelry brand. Why Ambush? Yoon: “He named it.” Verbal: “When we started the company, we started out of nowhere, it was like an ambush in warfare, I thought it was a fun name.”

 Yoon: “We were both studying in Boston. I was at Boston University studying graphic design and Verbal was at Boston College.”

Verbal: “I’m Korean, but I was born and raised in Japan. I went to an international school so it was like a natural transition for me to go to the States. I was a business and philosophy double major. I was already studying business when I got into philosophy. So I added that.”

Yoon: “We met at church.”

Verbal: “A lot of Korean people go to church. I didn’t, but I had a lot of Korean friends in college who went and after a while I was like, oh yeah, why not, and I started going, and that’s where I met her (laughs). She just came from Seattle.”

Verbal: “I did music back in high school, but at college I gave that up. Back in the nineties in the US and everywhere else in the world hip hop was getting bigger, but in Japan there was no rap music on the charts, in any shape or form whatsoever. Korean parents are known to be really strict with their kids and mine said ‘you are not going to do music’. So I went to college instead. In 1998 I returned to Japan on a winter break and I got back together with my buddy who I had been doing music with in high school. We did a demo and that turned into a record which did well. That was the beginning of M-Flo (Verbal’s hugely popular band, MM). Yoon and I had been dating for a while and I asked her to come to Japan with me.”

Yoon: “I was working in Boston and I wanted to move to New York because there were better jobs there. Around that time he was like ‘Why don’t you try Tokyo? I told him to find me something to do, to get me some small graphic design jobs. I didn’t mind trying. And it’s been 13 years. Tokyo’s my home now. I never expected it to turn out like this.”

Verbal: “It was hard to find work for her, so I created a little firm, just me and her, where I did promotion and sales and I’d plug her into certain projects. That’s how we started with cd design and graphics for apparel. I had always dreamed of doing my own jewelry, so I told her, let’s come up with something fun. Every rapper has to have their own chain, right (laughs)? That’s how Ambush started. Originally, it was just some jewelry for myself, but then we put a few pieces in my friend’s store in Omotesando and that caught the attention of the media.”

Every rapper has to have their own chain, right ?

Yoon: “He made a huge chain that looked like an Olympic gold medal, to celebrate what I think was your fifth album? That piece became kind of iconic, and people like Kanye would notice it. The pieces were huge and expensive, so we thought, hey, why don’t we make smaller versions? And then it really took off.

“We were wearing it, the cool Tokyo guys were wearing it, Kanye was wearing it, Kid Cudi and everybody was wearing it, it was just blowing up. And that’s when people like Sarah from Colette came up to us and asked where she could get those chains. We weren’t even trying to build a brand, but people wanted it. At this point we were still packing and sending things from our own house. About three years ago we decided if we’re going to do jewelry then let’s do a full collection, with a story behind it, and that’s the start of Ambush.”

Yoon: “Because of that start, people often associate us with hip hop jewelry, but it isn’t really. It’s the story of that period in time. We’re also into different things, and that reflects in our collection. A lot of things come from the subcultures, and the things we enjoy: the movie Holy Mountain, Japanese bike gangs, African tribes. One of our last collections, Dream Catchers, was about native american, and this winter’s collection was inspired by the photography of Karl Heinz Weinberger.”

Verbal: “We’re about to open our first store in Tokyo, in Shibuya. That’s the next stage: being able to see how customers react to certain pieces. We’ll also continue to show in Paris during fashion week. From day one almost half of our business has been outside Japan which is quite rare. We are a Japanese brand because everything is made there and that’s where we’re based. But our mindset and our ideas are international.”

WRITTEN BY JESSE BROUNS

PFW SS17: Hair wrap

Paris Fashion Week, the veritable crown jewel of fashion month, closed out SS17 with clear hair trends to note. Written by Sophie Coleman.

 Kenzo

Kenzo

 Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen

 Paco Rabannne

Paco Rabannne

Slick power

Today’s woman is busy, powerful, on the run. This seemed to be the driving force behind the minimal effort, slick back and go hairdos seen at Kenzo, Paco Rabanne and Olivier Theyskens. Sacai and Stella McCartney both did quiffed up shiny versions. Alexander McQueen went sideways with the sheen. Models sported plastered down, tribal-like tendrils; an ode to the Shetland Islands setting and celtic community. Finally, Givenchy’s glossy mod mops were next-level slick. Think Popeye’s Olive Oil with a subaqueous, spirited vibe. The perfect match for Givenchy’s metaphysical inspired workwear: tailored suits with oversized resin and crystal necklaces.

 Givenchy

Givenchy

Braids & Tails

Emporio Armani showed intricate, centre-parted braided hair designs. An exotic yet athletic accompaniment for the varied ethnic and sporty collection. Chanel had bouffed up side ponytails, paired with chunky jewel single earrings. Louis Vuitton presented chic low-hanging ponies at the back in a tight twist.

 Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

Headwear

On the opposite end of the minimal slick spectrum was elaborate, statement making headwear. Take your pick from futuristic, fantastical and sea-ready to sporty punk. Maison Margiela had caps and ponytail pieces made from scuba material. Miu Miu’s crafty floral crowns were a novel take on glamorous swim caps of olde. There was a sleek metallic turban at Louis Vuitton and a chic army beret at Sacai. And Chanel mixed it up with ‘intimate technology’ robo-cop style headsets and digi-tweed urban caps.

 Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

 Miu Miu

Miu Miu

 Sacai

Sacai

 Chanel

Chanel

 

 

Chanel SS17: Future Youth

Sideward caps, ponytails and pink lips: is it time to embrace our lighthearted, young selves again?

Karl Lagerfield playfully interpreted Chanel’s heritage for SS17 with a teenage royalty vibe. Youth also equals tech savvy, clearly a theme with the mainframe computer show setting.

Digitized print tweed suits featured bright piping or hypercolor flourishes, paired with lingerie slips, caps and chunky jewelry. It’s the future of ladylike dressing – technologically on point and equal parts class/punk. Written by Sophie Coleman

SS17 Marimekko: courage and color

Marimekko presented its SS17 collection in a pop-up Marimekko home within the Finnish Embassy in Paris. This showcased its heritage and design philosophy across textile, fashion and homewares.

Drawing on signature bold colors and geometric prints, this collection is about courage and empowerment. “The concept of luxury is changing…people are more interested in investing in a sustainable lifestyle and wardrobe, enjoying life as it is and following their own path.”

Beauty was fresh and simple. Accentuated brows and dusky lips let models’ natural beauty shine through and the bold prints take center stage. Written by Sophie Coleman.

Get inspired by Fendi’s Candy Punk Glam

It’s fair to say we were all stunned by Fendi’s SS17 runway show. Karl’s new interpretation of the rococo woman was refined and athletic; but what caught our attention the most was the unconventional aesthetic of the models.

“Karl told me he wanted a naturalness, but at the same time that candy feeling” said make up artist Peter Philips. That’s exactly what those glittery lips with cute hair pins brought; and pairing it with grungy cut eyeliner it made for a curious dream character.

If you’re scared to play with your look since it might not be accepted at your workplace, people can look at your weirdly or whatever reason; look at goddess Naomi Campbell here. Those lips are perfect to make a statement and still keep it simple.

About the eyes? That bold eyeliner was made for a sexy night out. So, let Fendi inspire you for a day and twist things around. It might turn out better than you think. Written by María Colina Saab.